Last weekend's farmer's market brought the sad news that the annual tart cherry crop I depend on was hit by hail at the blossom stage, and the crop was lost.
I nearly had a full on anxiety attack. Life without tart cherries? Tart cherries are - maybe - my favorite food on earth. And every summer, I can 8 quarts of sour cherry pie filling and 12 pints of tart cherry jam. The one that didn't gel, as I lamented in my post on apple pectin. My cherry pie is anticipated at Thanksgiving's Dead Poultry Society party.
Don't worry. I've located some cherries. Once again, food52 connections came through - there will be a Canorama in Pennsylvania next month, with a world of cherries ready to be canned.
In the meantime, when I saw first of the season sweet cherries last week, I brought home deep red, nearly maroon, super sweet, velvety cherries, bright red slightly tart cherries and Emperor Francis, a yellow heirloom beauty, streaked with pink that straddles tart and sweet with rare perfection. The next day, I spied two pints of tart cherries (Montmorency) at another market. I had the weight for jam, but not the recipe.
After consulting several canning books, I came right back to Christine Ferber, of course. She has a half sweet and half tart cherry preserves, flavored with Kirsch. As I am not a big fan of Kirsch, and I am a big fan of herbal tones in jam, I turned to my favorite cocktail enhancer, St. Germain. Elderflower liqueur. So French!
AND -- drumroll please -- I used my new apple pectin. And it worked. Perfectly. This preserves has a very nice gel that's soft set, with the whole cherries suspended in the gel. It's beautiful in the jar, on the spoon, on top of homemade ricotta, stirred into yogurt, spooned over ice cream or pound cake.
If you don't have apple pectin, substitute one package of commercial pectin and follow the directions on the box for finishing the preserves.
Oh, did I mention my beautiful new copper preserving pan? I love it. Yes, it really does make a difference.
Four Cherry Preserves with St. Germain
makes six half-pint jars
1.25# sweet cherries, preferably varied in taste and color
1.25# tart cherries
2.5 c sugar
Juice of one lemon
2-5oz packages of apple pectin
1/2 tsp butter
1 oz St. Germain liqueur
Pit the cherries over a bowl, capturing all the juices.* Add the sugar and lemon juice and allow the mixture to sit for an hour.
In a preserving or other wide and deep pan bring the mixture to a simmer. Remove from the heat and pour the jam into a glass or ceramic bowl, cover with parchment and allow to develop overnight.
The next day, strain out the cherries, capturing all the juices in your preserving pan. Bring this to a full, rolling boil. Described in most preserving books as 'a boil you can't stir down.'
Allow the syrup to boil for 5 minutes and skim the foam as completely as possible.
Add in the fruit, bring the preserves back up to a boil, then add 2-5oz packages of apple pectin and the butter. Butter added at this point will break down any remaining foam.
Bring back to a boil for one minute, test the set. Once the preserves forms a jelly, turn off the heat, add the liqueur, stir well, and allow the preserves to rest for five minutes. This will keep the fruit from floating to the top of your jars.
Fill half-pint jars, leaving 1/2" headspace. Seal with lids and rings. Process in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes.
Remove to a towel on the counter and allow to sit, undisturbed, for 24 hours. The preserves will further set up during the resting period.
*I have never used a cherry pitter, but I've only canned tart cherries, the ones that need only the thumbnail to pluck the pit out. The sweet cherries are a whole different beast. Now, I'm in the market for a cherry pitter. Anyone have a favorite?
Showing posts with label homemade apple pectin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label homemade apple pectin. Show all posts
Friday, June 18, 2010
Saturday, June 5, 2010
Two Preserving Projects: Apple Pectin and Rhubarb Rosemary Preserves
Sometime last year, I decided Sure Jell Pectin was a little weird. It just creeped me out. I'm sure it's fine. It's a natural ingredient, made from citrus peels, but I wanted more control of the exact ingredients in my jams. Organic is important to me.
And I really wanted some control over the amount of sugar used.
Now, let me just say, canners who use Pomona Pectin, have nothing bad to say about it. This is the one commercial product that works with less sugar. Last summer, I looked around for Pomona, couldn't find it, and decided I would try to make my jams without pectin.
Christine Ferber's preserve methods work best for this, as you strain the sugar-macerated fruit, make a syrup (boiled to 222°) and then add in the fruit at the end. But some fruits, especially cherry, just need that extra oomph the pectin provides in order to properly gel. I learned this the hard way - the cherry jam I made last summer is very runny. (I treated those jars as cherries in syrup, and candied them for ice cream, but that's another post.) And the pepper jelly I made without pectin was rubbery and too sticky. Feeling a little like Red Riding Hood, I knew there was a way that would be Just Right.
Mme. Ferber's jam methods also take much much longer to make. Often one, or sometimes two, days of macerating, straining, boiling down. It's a commitment. And sometimes I just want to be jammin' without all that delay. Even she uses an apple jelly to thicken some of her preserves (notably cherry.) She suggests making jelly out of green apples - early, nearly unripe, and full of natural pectin and then adds that jelly at the same time you might add pectin. Unfortunately, she adds sugar to the apple jelly, to preserve it, and I was so hoping to use less sugar.
You might remember, when I made mint jelly awhile back, I made apple pectin. That's when I started pondering this question. Then, two weeks ago, I noticed Trader Joes had organic small Granny Smith apples and I decided to try to make a simple, sugar free apple pectin for use throughout the summer.
To prepare for this experiment, I read articles all across the Interwebs, and then applied some old fashioned ingenuity to develop this method and recipe for apple pectin. I've tested it twice, in small batches, and find it works the same way the Sure Jell package works: added to the fruit and sugar mixture when it's boiling hard, this apple pectin thickens the jam as soon as the mixture comes back up to that boil-that-can't-be-stirred-down.
I'm excited about this experiment. I have 10-5oz packages of frozen pectin to try throughout the summer. I'll be reporting on these efforts as the summer goes on.
If you've made your own apple pectin, or if you try this recipe, won't you tell me about it in the comments below?
Apple Pectin
about 10 - 5oz packages
12 lbs green apples (either unripe or granny smith)
4 c water
In a large pot (8 qt or larger) add the water and apples, each one cut into 8 pieces, retaining skin, seeds, and core (as that's where the pectin resides.) Bring to a boil, then cover and cook for 30-45 minutes, until the apples are quite soft.
Line a large colander with a double layer of cheesecloth and carefully add the apple mixture. Press only slightly and not at all if you want to make clear jellies. Allow the pectin to strain overnight.
The next day, bring the pectin to a boil and reduce by one third.
Package your pectin in 5oz packages and freeze for future use.
Use one package with each 4 cups of fruit used -- at least that's the way it's worked for me! But, be prepared to add more pectin if needed.
And for those of you who aren't into the whole pectin project, here is a quick delicious preserves that is so good with cheese, you might just eat that entire container of Cowgirl Creamery Fromage Blanc (now available at the Bethesda Central Farm Market.) I know I was tempted.
Rhubarb Rosemary Honey Preserves
adapted from Mes Confitures
5 four ounce jars
1-1/2 lbs rhubarb
1 c sugar
3.5 oz forest flower honey (or any dark honey)
Juice of one lemon
5 sprigs rosemary
Cut the rhubarb into a small dice, add the sugar, stir and set aside for two hours.
Strain out the rhubarb and add the accumulated liquid and sugar to a 3-4 qt non-reactive pan. Add the honey and bring to a boil
Boil hard and bring to 222°, stirring all the time.
Add the rhubarb, juice of the lemon and the rosemary, bring back to a boil and boil for 5 minutes. Skim foam as needed.
Funnel into sterilized jars, wipe the rims, add the lids and rings.
Place in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes.
Remove and allow to cool for 24 hours on the counter.
PS Thank you so much, one and all, for your kindnesses over the last week. The loss of Dylan has made a huge hole in our hearts, and in our lives. We've got an application in for another scruffy terrier mix who needs a home. I hope to be posting some good news later this week. I just love you all and we're both so grateful for your support.
And I really wanted some control over the amount of sugar used.
Now, let me just say, canners who use Pomona Pectin, have nothing bad to say about it. This is the one commercial product that works with less sugar. Last summer, I looked around for Pomona, couldn't find it, and decided I would try to make my jams without pectin.
Christine Ferber's preserve methods work best for this, as you strain the sugar-macerated fruit, make a syrup (boiled to 222°) and then add in the fruit at the end. But some fruits, especially cherry, just need that extra oomph the pectin provides in order to properly gel. I learned this the hard way - the cherry jam I made last summer is very runny. (I treated those jars as cherries in syrup, and candied them for ice cream, but that's another post.) And the pepper jelly I made without pectin was rubbery and too sticky. Feeling a little like Red Riding Hood, I knew there was a way that would be Just Right.
Mme. Ferber's jam methods also take much much longer to make. Often one, or sometimes two, days of macerating, straining, boiling down. It's a commitment. And sometimes I just want to be jammin' without all that delay. Even she uses an apple jelly to thicken some of her preserves (notably cherry.) She suggests making jelly out of green apples - early, nearly unripe, and full of natural pectin and then adds that jelly at the same time you might add pectin. Unfortunately, she adds sugar to the apple jelly, to preserve it, and I was so hoping to use less sugar.
You might remember, when I made mint jelly awhile back, I made apple pectin. That's when I started pondering this question. Then, two weeks ago, I noticed Trader Joes had organic small Granny Smith apples and I decided to try to make a simple, sugar free apple pectin for use throughout the summer.
To prepare for this experiment, I read articles all across the Interwebs, and then applied some old fashioned ingenuity to develop this method and recipe for apple pectin. I've tested it twice, in small batches, and find it works the same way the Sure Jell package works: added to the fruit and sugar mixture when it's boiling hard, this apple pectin thickens the jam as soon as the mixture comes back up to that boil-that-can't-be-stirred-down.
I'm excited about this experiment. I have 10-5oz packages of frozen pectin to try throughout the summer. I'll be reporting on these efforts as the summer goes on.
If you've made your own apple pectin, or if you try this recipe, won't you tell me about it in the comments below?
Apple Pectin
about 10 - 5oz packages
12 lbs green apples (either unripe or granny smith)
4 c water
In a large pot (8 qt or larger) add the water and apples, each one cut into 8 pieces, retaining skin, seeds, and core (as that's where the pectin resides.) Bring to a boil, then cover and cook for 30-45 minutes, until the apples are quite soft.
Line a large colander with a double layer of cheesecloth and carefully add the apple mixture. Press only slightly and not at all if you want to make clear jellies. Allow the pectin to strain overnight.
The next day, bring the pectin to a boil and reduce by one third.
Package your pectin in 5oz packages and freeze for future use.
Use one package with each 4 cups of fruit used -- at least that's the way it's worked for me! But, be prepared to add more pectin if needed.
And for those of you who aren't into the whole pectin project, here is a quick delicious preserves that is so good with cheese, you might just eat that entire container of Cowgirl Creamery Fromage Blanc (now available at the Bethesda Central Farm Market.) I know I was tempted.
Rhubarb Rosemary Honey Preserves
adapted from Mes Confitures
5 four ounce jars
1-1/2 lbs rhubarb
1 c sugar
3.5 oz forest flower honey (or any dark honey)
Juice of one lemon
5 sprigs rosemary
Cut the rhubarb into a small dice, add the sugar, stir and set aside for two hours.
Strain out the rhubarb and add the accumulated liquid and sugar to a 3-4 qt non-reactive pan. Add the honey and bring to a boil
Boil hard and bring to 222°, stirring all the time.
Add the rhubarb, juice of the lemon and the rosemary, bring back to a boil and boil for 5 minutes. Skim foam as needed.
Funnel into sterilized jars, wipe the rims, add the lids and rings.
Place in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes.
Remove and allow to cool for 24 hours on the counter.
PS Thank you so much, one and all, for your kindnesses over the last week. The loss of Dylan has made a huge hole in our hearts, and in our lives. We've got an application in for another scruffy terrier mix who needs a home. I hope to be posting some good news later this week. I just love you all and we're both so grateful for your support.
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